Craftsmanship

Measurements are carefully taken by the cutter, who also takes into account all the characteristics of the individual’s physique such as posture, shoulders drop, and any minute variations in the lengths of the arms.

The measurements are used to create the paper pattern, which is cut by hand. The pattern works as a personal template for what we make up for the client. Each client has his own individual pattern that serves as the blueprint for his bespoke garments.

When the cloth reaches cutter, the paper pattern is laid out on the cloth and chalked around. The cloth is then cut by hand, creating all the individual panels for the garment. At this stage, our cutters purposely leave extra cloth at the inlays to allow the suit to be altered at a future date should the client’s weight change.

Once the cloth has been cut to shape, creating the foundation of the suit, additional materials are assembled, such as natural wool canvasses, linen and the finest silks and linings. The materials are sorted by hand to ensure quality control, checking for quality, strength, fineness and appearance.

After the trim has been added to the suit, the customer’s garment is assigned to his tailor, who will use his well-trained eye to observe the pattern for the smallest imperfections. Only when he is entirely satisfied, he begins sewing it together. The suit is then canvassed by hand and is readied for the fitting.

During the fitting, the cutter begins to mark the alterations to suit the client’s posture & requirement. He inspects the break overshoe, the seat of trouser, the drape, neck point, and cuffs, to name only a few key points of inspection with an eye toward making all required adjustments and refinements.

After the fitting, the garment is completely taken apart, pressed, and re-cut, taking in to account any necessary adjustments. After the trial, the client’s master pattern is changed & saved for any future garments. Once marking up has been done to the cutter’s satisfaction, the suit is given back to the tailor to be stitched for the final fit.

The suit is now ready for the final fitting. The bespoke process that starts from the initial cloth selection, pattern cutting, fabric cutting & trim to putting together & trial is completed following the finishing process. The client now tries on the finished suit which is closely inspected and approved by the cutter to be delivered.